OURS!!!

A few days ago I was out for an evening surf at the most populous break in these parts, on a not-so-heavily populated night. Beautiful chest high waves. Light offshores. Sun shining. I was paddling back out as a guy paddles into a nice walled up one. Someone, who looked as though they were in the early days of their surfing journey, did a five point turn about 100 feet down the line, and then started to splash and kick in an attempt to catch the same wave as the one already being ridden.

Already-standing-up guy proceeded to angrily yell, "MINE! MINE!"

I sat on the corner of the point for a while, where I was happily picking off the ones swinging wide, perfect for logging. I sat there laughing at how absurd it seems to ride a wave while yelling "MINE!" at someone else.

A couple of minutes later one of those wide ones swung through. I faded and then hooked into the pocket. As I began a stroll to the nose a fellow surfer looked me in the eye, turned, and dropped into the wave. I gave an "Accgghhh! Acggghhhh!" Granted, I was proudly perched with 5 toes (never 10 for me, only 5) over and a beautiful 50 foot section laid out before me, but my "accgghhh!" wasn't much different than a loud "Mine!". The dropper-inner did a couple of turns and kicked out.

I slowly paddled my log back out while trying to extract another log from my eye.